Bristol's Backyard Wine Gardens: Grape-Treading Grapes in Urban Spaces

Every 20 minutes or so, an ageing diesel train arrives at a spray-painted stop. Close by, a police siren pierces the near-constant road noise. Daily travelers rush by falling apart, ivy-covered garden fences as rain clouds gather.

This is perhaps the least likely spot you anticipate to find a perfectly formed vineyard. However James Bayliss-Smith has cultivated 40 mature vines heavy with round purplish berries on a rambling garden plot situated between a row of 1930s houses and a local rail line just above the city town centre.

"I've seen individuals hiding heroin or whatever in the shrubbery," says the grower. "Yet you simply continue ... and continue caring for your grapevines."

Bayliss-Smith, forty-six, a filmmaker who runs a kombucha drinks business, is among several local vintner. He has pulled together a informal group of cultivators who produce vintage from several discreet city grape gardens tucked away in private yards and community plots throughout Bristol. The project is too clandestine to have an formal title yet, but the group's WhatsApp group is named Grape Expectations.

Urban Vineyards Around the Globe

To date, the grower's plot is the sole location registered in the City Vineyard Network's upcoming world atlas, which includes more famous urban wineries such as the 1,800 vines on the slopes of Paris's historic Montmartre area and over three thousand grapevines with views of and within the Italian city. Based in Italy charitable organization is at the forefront of a movement re-establishing city vineyards in historic wine-producing nations, but has discovered them all over the globe, including cities in East Asia, Bangladesh and Uzbekistan.

"Vineyards assist urban areas remain more eco-friendly and ecologically varied. These spaces protect open space from development by creating permanent, productive farming plots within urban environments," explains the association's president.

Similar to other vintages, those produced in urban areas are a result of the earth the plants thrive in, the vagaries of the weather and the individuals who care for the fruit. "A bottle of wine represents the beauty, local spirit, environment and history of a urban center," notes the president.

Unknown Eastern European Variety

Returning to the city, the grower is in a race against time to gather the vines he cultivated from a cutting left in his allotment by a Polish family. Should the precipitation comes, then the birds may take advantage to attack again. "Here we have the enigmatic Polish variety," he comments, as he removes bruised and mouldy grapes from the shimmering clusters. "The variety remains uncertain what variety they are, but they are certainly hardy. In contrast to noble varieties – Burgundy grapes, Chardonnay and additional renowned European varieties – you don't have to spray them with chemicals ... this is possibly a special variety that was developed by the Eastern Bloc."

Group Activities Throughout Bristol

Additional participants of the collective are additionally making the most of sunny interludes between bursts of autumn rain. At a rooftop garden with views of Bristol's glistening waterfront, where historic trading ships once bobbed with casks of vintage from France and Spain, one cultivator is collecting her rondo grapes from about fifty plants. "I love the smell of the grapevines. It is so evocative," she remarks, stopping with a container of fruit slung over her shoulder. "It recalls the fragrance of southern France when you roll down the car windows on vacation."

Grant, 52, who has devoted more than two decades working for humanitarian organizations in conflict zones, unexpectedly took over the grape garden when she moved back to the UK from Kenya with her family in recent years. She experienced an overwhelming duty to look after the vines in the garden of their new home. "This plot has previously endured three different owners," she explains. "I really like the concept of environmental care – of handing this down to future caretakers so they can keep cultivating from this land."

Sloping Vineyards and Natural Production

Nearby, the final two members of the group are hard at work on the precipitous slopes of Avon Gorge. Jo Scofield has cultivated more than one hundred fifty vines situated on ledges in her expansive property, which descends towards the muddy local waterway. "Visitors frequently express amazement," she notes, indicating the interwoven grape garden. "It's astonishing to them they can see rows of vines in a urban neighborhood."

Currently, Scofield, sixty, is picking clusters of dusty purple Rondo grapes from rows of vines slung across the hillside with the help of her daughter, Luca. Scofield, a wildlife and conservation film-maker who has contributed to Netflix's Great National Parks series and BBC Two's gardening shows, was motivated to cultivate vines after observing her neighbor's vines. She has learned that amateurs can make intriguing, pleasurable traditional vintage, which can command prices of upwards of seven pounds a serving in the increasing quantity of wine bars specialising in minimal-intervention vintages. "It's just incredibly satisfying that you can truly make good, natural wine," she says. "It is quite on trend, but in reality it's resurrecting an old way of producing wine."

"During foot-stomping the fruit, the various natural microorganisms come off the skins into the juice," says the winemaker, ankle deep in a bucket of small branches, seeds and red liquid. "This represents how wines were made traditionally, but commercial producers introduce preservatives to eliminate the wild yeast and subsequently add a lab-grown culture."

Difficult Conditions and Inventive Solutions

In the immediate vicinity active senior another cultivator, who inspired Scofield to plant her vines, has gathered his companions to pick Chardonnay grapes from the 100 plants he has arranged precisely across two terraces. Reeve, a Lancashire-born PE teacher who taught at Bristol University developed a passion for viticulture on annual sporting trips to Europe. But it is a challenge to cultivate this particular variety in the dampness of the gorge, with cooling tides sweeping in and out from the nearby estuary. "I wanted to make Burgundian wines in this location, which is a bit bonkers," says the retiree with a smile. "This variety is slow-maturing and very sensitive to fungal infections."

"My goal was creating Burgundian wines here, which is a bit bonkers"

The temperamental Bristol climate is not the sole challenge faced by winegrowers. Reeve has been compelled to erect a barrier on

Alexis Lee
Alexis Lee

A passionate web developer with over 10 years of experience, specializing in responsive design and modern frameworks.